CS (January, 2006)

By Liz Grossman

Most Randolph Street restaurants tend to nestle in and stay awhile. (Take stalwarts like Marche and Vivo, which have been going strong for more than 10 years.) So when decade-old veteran Bluepoint Oyster Bar shut its doors in July and reemerged three months later as Extra Virgin, we were surprised, but confident that owners Roger Greenfield and Ted Kasemir of Restaurants-America would put something solid in its place.

"Bluepoint needed an update," explained Greenfield. "It was getting tired and we wanted to take it in a more contemporary direction."

While we'll always dream about Bluepoint's classic seafood and steaks, we won't miss the overdone '40s-supperclub décor. At Extra Virgin the 7,000-square-foot space has been completely transformed into an Italian-inspired enoteca and wine bar with a focus on olive oils, imported antipasti and small and large plates. Greenfield and Kasemir recruited chef Nick Van Wassenhove (formerly of La Vita and Leonardo's) to stray from the traditional Italian fare he was doing and delve into the world of antipasti, cichetti and more delicate dishes.

"We were going for sort of a grand café, something you may find on the border of Italy or France," explained Greenfield. Gone are the massive black booths, and in are lacquered wicker chairs, imported Italian mosaic tiles on the floor; hundreds of framed photographs, paintings and vintage ads, and an oversized photo of a semi-nude torso. Although more comfortable and warm than the Bluepoint atmosphere, the new décor does border on hodge-podgey; inconsistent light fixtures run the gamut from large glowing orbs to oversized lampshades and random room accents range from wooden African sculptures to cosmic '60s clocks. One great décor move on their part was opening up the wall that separates the dining room from the bar with four large open windows accented with mirrors. The remodeled bar area flaunts the ubiquitous plasma screen TVs as well as a long, comfy banquette with high-top tables and chairs.

Those that like to nibble before their entrées will savor the antipasti selections at Extra Virgin. Choose from 10 different house-cured meats (we loved the cacciatore salami), imported Italian cheeses, house-marinated veggies and other seasonal varieties (3 for $8, 6 for $12). The Cichetti menu is a nosher's dream with bite-friendly starter items like the Assorted Olive Plate ($4) and Truffle Potato Chips ($4). But save room for the larger appetizers like Italian Figs ($10), a light dish where prosciutto di parma, fresh buffalo mozzarella, opal basil, sweet figs and a lavender honey vinaigrette go together in perfect harmony. We also loved the flour-dusted Fritto Misto ($12), which included lightly fried shrimp, calamari, scallops, fennel and zucchini (although with such light breading on the fish, we wished the plain tomato sauce that came with it had more bite). What was bursting with flavor was the Grilled Duck Sausage ($9), made in-house and served as two generous links accompanied by South African porcini mushrooms, mascarpone, creamy polenta and a sweet Cognac reduction sauce.

Van Wassenhove is particularly excited about the flatbreads on the menu, and we understood why when we tried the Smoked Chicken Saltimbocca ($9). Oblong in shape and easily shared, this thin pizza was topped with prosciutto, sage, provolone and grilled chicken with just a subtle layer of tomato sauce soaked into the crust.

There are enough starters and small plates to make your meal, but don't overlook the tempting choices on the entrée menu, like the Maine Lobster Cannelloni ($19), a large homemade pasta tube stuffed with comforting ricotta, lobster meat, roasted garlic and a shellfish tomato broth. The risotto and giant Brussels sprouts in the Chestnut Risotto ($14) were exquisite but we could've done without the overly salty and too-crispy duck confit. Other traditional Italian dishes to try include the Short Rib Osso Buco ($21) and the Roasted Spicy Veal Meatballs ($14).

For dessert, don't miss Chestnut Panna Cotta ($7) or the fun Tiramisu Shake ($7), a deconstructed do-it-yourself version of the traditional Italian dessert, where the expresso comes in a demitasse cup that you pour and mix into a glass of whipped cream, mascarpone cheese and a secret ingredient, as homemade ladyfingers lay off to the side.

Wines are mainly from France and Italy, with a few great selections from Greece, Napa and New Zealand thrown into the mix; nearly every bottle is under $50 and glasses hover around $10. Extra Virgin also shakes up a mean Bellini ($9) and Sangria ($6) for those looking to cocktail.

Leave it to the owners of Bar Louie to also make sure there's a lounge on the scene. This month, neighboring XV Lounge opens, offering a late-night place for drinks, appetizers and private events. It may have been our first time at Extra Virgin, but there's no doubt we'll be back.

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