By Charles Buhman

MIAMI HERALD (July 2005) - While most of the restaurants at the Seminole Hard Rock conjure a come-as-you-are, come-when-you-please atmosphere, Bluepoint Ocean Grill has a decidedly more upscale, decidely tougher ticket aura.

We went there one night thinking we might just pop in, but were politely assured we didn't stand a chance. No prob: the bartender was quick to offer solace in the form of the Bluepoint infused martini, something like a kid's sugary lemonade with a very adult kick to it -- refreshing and dangerous. We were soon back for more; this time with reservations.

What's the big deal? For one thing, Bluepoint is part of a small chain (outposts in Tucson, Ariz., and Destin) from the same people who brought you Red Star Tavern, which means quality's going to be a pretty safe bet.

The space itself is slick, all minimal SoBe-modern with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking Lake Paradise, where, our waiter tells us, we can expect all sorts of fireworks once construction is completed.

And while it's got the trendy open-kitchen thing going on, the kitchen's behind plate glass, keeping the noise -- and the heat -- out of the dining room.

The oh-so-hip bar serves all the "in" drinks, beer on tap from Amstel Light to Yuengling Lager, and a wine list divided among ''blondes'' and ''redheads'' -- though we allowed our knowledgeable waiter to steer us into a delightful, unlisted pinot noir.

As for the menu, Bluepoint's Island Mac & Cheese is such a decadent version of God's perfect comfort food -- mascarpone cream sauce with shrimp, lobster and Creole spices -- that it very likely would have been the only thing any of our group of eight would have tried had there not been a run on the dish before we arrived (next time we'll place our order when we book our reservations).

Instead we were forced to try a variety of Bluepoint's offerings.

Superstitious about months without R's, we passed on the raw bar selections that included a shellfish platter that looked like it was built for a party, and opted to pass around the nicely crisped "Jamaican" coconut shrimps and "Calypso" crab cakes (no filler in these babies).

For what it's worth, there's a lot of homage to the islands in the menu's language, a lot less in the cooking, so don't let it throw you. Take the "West Indies" crab stuffed shrimp. They're good, and we recommend them, but don't have a clue what's West Indies about them.

Steaks were done to a turn and our guests were particularly pleased with the filets, less so with the enormous, bone-in cowboy steak special that really should be attempted only by especially bloodthirsty carnivores.

We were also happy with the ubiquitous ahi tuna done in the ubiquitous manner, and the blackened shrimp fettucine alfredo, though the blackening spices could have been considerably spicier.

But the standout on this evening was the trout, the soft flesh perfectly done and encased in a crispy hazelnut crust.

Desserts, on the other hand, seemed fairly ordinary except for a rather nice rendition of the local favorite, Key lime pie.

Place: Bluepoint Ocean Grill.

Address: 5730 Seminole Way (in the Seminole Hard Rock complex's Seminole Paradise).

Rating: ***

Contact: 954-327-8911; www.bluepointamerica.com.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily.

Prices: Starters $4.95-$12.95, entrees $14.95-$26.95 (note: many items set at market price), desserts $2.95-$5.95.

FYI: Reservations recommended, especially on weekend nights; full bar; AX, DN, DS, MC, VS.

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