CHICAGO TRIBUNE (November 2, 2005)

By Chris LaMorte

When we think about our experience at Extra Virgin, the new Randolph Street enoteca that opened last week, we can't help also thinking about Food Network's perky pasta princess, Rachael Ray.

That's a compliment. At least, we hope it's a compliment.

But if Extra Virgin chef Nick Van Wassenhove, who's done stints at Rosebud and Leonardo's Tuscan Bistro, follows conventional culinary wisdom, such a comparison's liable to garner us 40 lashes with a wet bucatini. See, while Ray's "how-cute-is-this" approach is a big-time hit with home chefs, for kitchen pros, it grates like a rusty rasp.

Sure, while this place shres Ray's penchant for what she calls "E.V.O.O." (extra virgin olive oil), it lacks her sheer extroversion. But, like the TV cook, Extra Virgin's not setting out to win over froufrou foodies, either. If the restaurant succeeds, it will be by sticking to the approachable and affordable niche in this city's sometimes - let's face it - self-important small-plate scene. And right now, it's doing a decent job of that.

Take the servers, for example. They're clad in T-shirts bearing the restaurant's logo (a bit corporate if you ask us, but this spot's a Restaurants-America property, a rapidly expanding company that may just open a Bar Louie in your upstairs linen closet if you're not careful). Nevertheless, they were laidback, affable and fairly knowledgeable about the menu. But when it came to our first small plate of the evening, an assortment of olives ($4), our server said cheerfully, "There are 10 types here." But after a moment of consideration added, "Just don't ask me what they are."

And, to be honest, we were relieved to be let off the hook. We were ready to dig in. The menu's very long and probably could use some judicious pruning. The bulk consists of 15 small plates, 16 large plates, and lots of salads, pizzas, bruschettas, antipasti platters and a category called cichetti: nibbles like the olives or truffle potato chips ($4). The chef's not super-reverential when it comes to Italian, either; you'll find a few French-inflected items like steak frites ($18).

For an enoteca, though, we thought the wine service was sort of underplayed. While there's an international lilst ranging from $21 to $90 a bottle - including lots of everyday reds and whites, and some higher-end offerings - we would have liked pairing suggestions. But, to make up for it, there are a few specialty cocktails, like the citrus-y Positano and the Saint Tropez ($9 each).

Small plates run between $8 and $13, with the average price at $10. Large plates range between $12 and $19, and average about $15. We tried the mini Kobe Italian beef sandwiches served on baguettes ($10). Turns out - like a few of the small plates we tried here - not so mini. We love the playfulness of going gourmet on Chicago's classic sandwich, but this could have fed four people.

The entree of sweet butternut squash gnocchi ($14) with lemon thyme offered nice contrasting flavors. The heirloom tomato salad ($9) was the evening's most unqualified hit, scoring additional points for seductive plating.

Speaking of seductive, you don't think Extra Virgin was just referring to the olive oil, did you? Yeah, there is indeed an olive oil of the day selection featured on the dining room chalkboard, complete with tasting notes, but the room has had a head-to-toe makeover from its days as Bluepoint Oyster Bar. It might be described as casually sexy, awash in cool blue and turquoise tones with curved banquettes, and a mix of comfortable upholstered and rattan seating.

While prints of famous ladies and fashion models crowd the walls, a large mosaic of a semi-nude woman is the dining room's centerfold-er, centerpiece. Sorry, boys, she's very strategically posed.

Hey, what did you expect from an Extra Virgin?

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